Life Aboard a Phinisi: Sailing Komodo

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Lindsey Duehning

We were 12 travelers from all over the world, meeting for the very first time. Our group was made up of a solo backpacker from Brazil, two Aussie sisters, an older couple from Germany, their adult son, a young couple from China, best friends from Denmark, me and my husband from the U.S. By day two, we were a weird little family. Life aboard a phinisi.

That’s what it’s really like unless you opt for a private liveaboard. If you’re wondering what else to expect, keep reading. You’ll get a glimpse into everything from the cabins and meals to morning routines and nights under the stars.

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What’s a Phinisi, Anyway?

Phinisis are traditional Indonesian sailing ships. Ours had two levels and a bow perfect for sunning and stargazing.

Our boat looked straight out of a pirate movie with creaky stairs and wooden decks that had definitely seen some stories. Think: teak wood, gentle waves, and nothing but sea and islands in every direction. Sailing through Komodo National Park on a traditional Indonesian phinisi was more than a way to get around. It was a floating escape and our front-row seat to the magic that unfolded every day.

Tour of the Phinisi

Our Cabin: A Little Floating Dream at the Back of the Boat

Okay, so let’s talk about the room. Our cabin was tucked into the very last spot on the lower deck, like a hidden treasure chest.

At the foot of the queen-sized bed were French doors that slid open onto our very own private back deck. Two chairs and nothing but endless ocean trailing behind us. The water was so close, you could literally reach down and touch it. The room had big wraparound windows. We saw scattered islands peeking up from the Indian Ocean like something out of a nature documentary. It made brushing your teeth feel oddly cinematic.

And yes. We had our own ensuite bathroom, which is a total win when you’ve got salt in all sorts of places. But don’t expect privacy walls to separate the shower from the rest of the bathroom. The whole bathroom is the shower. Just be warned: storage is minimal. Think cubbies and hooks, not closets. So do yourself a favor and pack like you’re going on an island-hopping mission, not moving in.

Dining Room and Meals on the Water

Breakfast, lunch, and dinner were served “family-style” on the lower deck. One long table was lined with food all the way down the middle, and it had chairs on both sides. We were served local Indonesian dishes and food from all over the world. Some I was familiar with and some not so much. We all grabbed seats, shared stories and talked excitedly about the next day’s adventures.

Mealtime was definitely a highlight. Snacks magically appeared between snorkel stops (hello, banana fritters). And they always made sure tea, coffee, smoothies and fresh fruit were stocked.

Living Spaces: Where We Hung Out & Watched the World Go By

Life aboard the phinisi wasn’t just about sleeping below deck. It was about finding your favorite perch in the open-air living spaces.

The Daily Rhythm

  • 7:30 a.m.: Breakfast + sail to first stop
  • 12:30 p.m.: Lunch onboard
  • 1:30–4:00 p.m.: More island exploring or swim stops
  • 5:30 p.m.: Anchor for sunset
  • Evening: Dinner, card games, stargazing, hammock naps

The Crew

They were the quiet heroes of the entire trip. The crew on our phinisi did everything. Seriously.

They prepped our cabins before we even stepped onboard, cooked and served every delicious meal, ferried us to and from each island in the dinghy like clockwork, and somehow always did it with a smile. Whether it was tying off ropes or handing out fresh fruit after a long hike, they made the whole experience feel effortless. Behind every perfect moment was a crew member working hard to make it happen.

Want to plan your own Komodo trip? Start with my full packing guide and how to choose a liveaboard.

Plan Your Own Komodo Trip

Download my FREE Komodo Liveaboard Travel Guide!

  • International Travel Checklist
  • Komodo Packing List
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Hi, I’m Lindsey.

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